Wednesday, October 14, 2026

Sawatch Sanctuary

Summit of Tabeguache Peak; looking north at Mt. Antero

I bought a house! 

Teller Street is a 1955 3 bed, 2 bath home built in the Italianate and Romanesque Revival style with Salida brick. It has two stories, two nicely finished bathrooms, a ton of trees and shade, a big backyard and side yard, and a shed in the back (gear storage and future cat sanctuary). 

After months of touring Salida’s stale and overpriced listings, the market was feeling grim. But one morning I was on the summit of La Plata peak and flipped my phone off Airplane Mode, as I sometimes do on summits. I saw that Raf had texted me a listing – from the thumbnail on my phone, I immediately recognized it as a home I had walked by many times and loved. I had even considered writing to the owners and seeing if they might consider selling (I hesitated because I had tried that unsuccessfully for another place). Needless to say, I hopped on the listing right away, toured it at 3pm, and had an offer in by 7pm. 

Raf and I are both loving Salida – me leading the charge on the mountain front and her on the river front – and we’re super excited to make it our long-term home! I enjoy living biking distance from the grocery store, world-class mountain bike trails, and events downtown like local theater performances, comedy, and free concerts at Riverside Park. The town is full of good people and feels like it has a promising future. Our new home is conveniently just four blocks from our current place, which gives us a sense of the neighborhood and will make the move easy. 

Salida proper is definitely less rural than where I had anticipated ending up, but it’s ideal! I did tour some spots outside of town, but many of the really cool rural properties in the area suffer from major insurance hurdles and water challenges. Our future Lost Coast cabin can be the rural one!

The previous owners were writers who ran the Colorado Central Magazine and lived in the home since 1989. The first owner, who built the house in 1955, must have already had some nostalgia for the Salida architectural styles of the early 1900s and a little bit of money. 

Overall, I feel very grateful that the right property came on the market at the right time and at an accessible price. The housing market is obviously absurdly expensive, both nationally and in Colorado, and I would definitely not consider $625k to be affordable in normal terms. It is reachable to me only because I have meticulously squirreled away money over the years, and have a job I love that pays me fairly. Salida has experienced a notable correction over the last year, and the list price for Teller St likely reflects this. All things considered, I think I got a good deal! I bought at 60% of the median price per square foot and negotiated a $25k reduction in the purchase price to pay for a roof replacement. 

There is deep injustice baked into current home prices, and it’s definitely frustrating to have to spend so much, even while getting a good deal (for the times). It is super super lame that the Federal Reserve made money artificially cheap, inflated our currency, drove up home values, and front-loaded a decade of typical appreciation into a span of three years, creating a ton of winners and losers in the process. This amounts to theft from the future and from the young, an incentive to own rather than to work. But that knowledge does not enhance my life moving forward, and it seems unlikely that this deep rift in society over housing and assets can be resolved fairly without a massive increase in wages, which can't come soon enough. At a certain point, bitterness stops being a reaction and starts being a choice. 

Homeownership feels right to me because we love our lives in Salida, we love this particular house, and I want more space and stability. I strongly value having close access to high mountain recreation, and I want to live with Raf and many cats at Teller Street. More than an investment, it is a home!

People keep asking me “what’s your vision for the place?” Mainly, a handful of aesthetic updates and some bigger projects. 

Soon after I move in, I am going to have the roof replaced. But the fun projects are inside, including some flooring and ceiling updates and a major kitchen remodel. In the living room, dining room, office, guest bedroom, and second-floor landing, I’m having the ¾” Douglas Fir subfloor finished. In the kitchen, bathroom, and entryway (tested positive for asbestos), I'm going to set black stone tiles. I'll paint all the walls a fresh matte white, and then do colors on the ceilings: Raf and I have been looking at mountain colors like ochre, rust / firebrick, dark green, and slate blue. 

In the kitchen, I'll strip out all the old appliances and cabinets, replace with new stainless steel appliances (already bought on the cheap! a condo owner didn't want any of the appliances that came with the place), and then get a fresh set of cabinets and granite countertops! 

There are some unfortunate tile ceilings throughout the house, including an office-style drop ceiling in the kitchen (asbestos free!) and a custom wood frame + large tile ceiling in the guest bedroom. After peeking above the tiles to see what demons might be hiding up there, I want to tear both of those out and gain a couple feet of room back. If the plaster ceiling is cracked, I’ll hang drywall. 

The yard already has a few awesome junipers, both large and small, but I plan to add two more in the front yard – one on either side of the front entryway – to give a little separation between the porch and the street. I want to finish the backyard shed into a space that can be divided between gear storage, foster cat zone, and chicken coop. 

It's all exciting and a little crazy, but I'm just glad to have established ourselves in the Rocky Mountains for the indefinite future! 

Fall has arrived in the high country!


Snowy morning on Shavano. Inversion visible in the San Luis Valley. 

Looking West towards Mt. Aetna

Cronin Peak (left) and Mt. Antero (right) 

Summit of Mt. White; looking southeast at Salida

Summit of Mt. White; looking south at Shavano and Tabeguache

The many roads on Mt. Antero

Summit of Cronin Peak; looking northeast at Mts. Antero and Princeton

Rocky alpine basin below Cronin Peak

Summit of Quandary Peak; looking west towards Leadville and the mighty Sawatch

Summit of Quandary Peak; looking south at Mts. Democrat, Cameron, Lincoln, and Bross (i.e., the "Decalibron"). I had just hiked the Decalibron earlier that morning in miserable cold and windy conditions, so I decided I needed Quandary to warm up and get my jollies. 

Summit of Quandary Peak; looking northwest toward Fremont Pass

Raf wearing her cool sunglasses on the CDT

Our little baby Tabeguache

She's soo cute 🥹

Saturday, August 29, 2026

A Tour of the Sawatch 14-ers

Working my way south to north, I have now climbed all but one of the 15 Sawatch range 14-ers – only Mount of the Holy Cross remains. These prominent peaks, situated between the Elk Mountains to the west and the Mosquito Range to the east, form the Continental Divide and the heart of the Rocky Mountains. Lording over the Upper Arkansas Valley, they are visible from Salida, Buena Vista, Leadville, and surrounding areas of Chaffee and Park counties. Mt. Elbert, king of the Sawatch, is the highest point in Colorado and the second-highest in the lower 48 (only Mt. Whitney is higher). 

Ascending 3000-5000 feet up from subalpine forests (9–10,000 ft) through the alpine tundra meadows (11–12,000 ft) and harsh lands of rock (>13,000 ft) to some of the highest points in the country is a magnificent and joyous activity. By late July, the monsoon has transformed dry valley forests into lush and damp mountain jungles smelling of decomposing plant materials as microbial communities, fertilized by continental dust but kept at bay for 8 months out of the year by frost, explode in activity. Alpine tundra plants and mosses glow green in the harsh mountain sun. The world from treeline up to the high rocky places where plants can no longer grow is particularly spectacular. After many years of exploring diverse mountain ranges, Colorado’s alpine landscapes in the late summer stand out as the finest. Vast land areas above treeline, combined with a reliable summer storm sequence, in which mornings are clear and calm and afternoons are stormy and ominous, evokes simultaneous joy and terror and creates a distinct vibe that far exceeds other pleasant landscapes of the world: beaches, tropical islands, coastal fjords, rolling hills, canyons, desert oases etc. 

Summit routes often ascend 3000+ feet over the span of just a couple miles. When I am fresh, I cruise uphill, tackling ascents of 3000+ ft in ~1.5 hours. But if I am tired or sore, the trail feels much steeper and I slow down. The ascent is a moving meditation in which the combination of exercise and raw natural beauty produces a state of pure dynamism. The descents offer the benefit of gravity, but require steady focus to keep the footfalls light and avoid wear and tear on the knees. The experience can often be enhanced by summiting multiple 14-ers in a day. With the first as a warm-up, the second (or third) becomes more challenging and rewarding. Sometimes these mountains are close together and easily combined (e.g., Mts. Belford and Oxford and Missouri Mountain), but in other cases, they just share a trailhead (e.g., Mts. Elbert and Massive). 

Hiking 14-ers does not allow one to thoroughly explore Colorado’s alpine terrain, but it does allow one to get a detailed sense of its sky terrain. Some 14-ers are hard to clearly see from below, but in clear weather the summits allow incredible views of nearby 14-ers and other mountain ranges. It’s often hard to see the 14-er I am climbing, and seeing it from a nearby 14-er always provides new perspectives on where I have already walked (e.g., excellent views of Mt. Yale from Mt. Columbia trail). 

I’ve been seeing mountain goats recently. Over the weekend of my birthday, friends Dave and Amy came to town and we did a single overnight backpacking trip on a short loop off of Independence Pass. At Lost Man Lake, where we camped, a group of seven goats roamed very close to us and our tents, sometimes just 10 feet away or so. A large male (“Mufasa”) often stood solitary in watch while the others munched on vegetation. It turns out these goats, which are more like antelopes, originated from the Himalayas and made their way across the Bering Strait, though the mountain goats in Colorado were introduced from Montana in the late 1940s. I have only seen them in the most incredible of high-mountain landscapes (e.g., last summer in the San Juans). It's shocking that they can survive the winter at such high elevations. 

Among the goats
Lost Man Creek drainage
Mufasa
Lost Man Lake

I’m not going to provide too many details about the 14-ers except in the captions. In short, many mountains were ascended. All are in chronological order over this summer.

Photo Table of Contents:

  1. Mt. Antero (14,271 ft): 7.3 miles / 4770 ft ascent / May 31
  2. Mt. Princeton (14,200 ft): 6.6 miles / 5020 ft ascent / June 5
  3. Mt. Yale (14,200 ft): 4.6 miles / 4000 ft ascent / June 21
  4. Mts. Harvard (14,424 ft) and Columbia (14,075 ft): 9 miles / 5550 ft ascent / July 12
  5. Mts. Belford (14,200 ft) and Oxford (14,158 ft) and Missouri Mountain (14,070 ft): 9.6 miles / 7060 ft ascent / August 2 
  6. Mt. Huron (14,010 ft): 3.3 miles / 3300 ft ascent / August 3
  7. Mts. Elbert (14,440 ft) and Massive (14,430 ft): 9.3 miles / 8350 ft ascent / August 27
  8. La Plata Peak (14,340 ft): 4.6 miles / 4310 ft ascent / August 28
1. Mt. Antero (14,271 ft): 7.3 miles / 4770 ft ascent / May 31

Summit of Mt. Antero; looking north at Mt. Princeton
Summit of Mt. Antero; looking west
Summit of Mt. Antero; looking northwest at Baldwin Creek Drainage
Cronin Peak (13,872 ft)

2. Mt. Princeton (14,200 ft): 6.6 miles / 5020 ft ascent / June 5
Mt. Princeton
Summit of Mt. Princeton; looking south at Mt. Antero
Summit of Mt. Princeton; looking north at Mt. Yale etc.
Summit of Mt. Princeton; Salida in upper left, Mt. Antero in upper right

3. Mt. Yale (14,200 ft): 4.6 miles / 4000 ft ascent / June 21
Mt. Yale's northwest ridge
Summit of Mt. Yale; looking north at Mts. Harvard and Columbia and Horn Fork Basin
Arm of Mt. Yale extending toward Mt. Princeton

4. Mts. Harvard (14,424 ft) and Columbia (14,075 ft): 9 miles / 5550 ft ascent / July 12
Ascending Mt. Harvard; Mt. Yale in the background
Bear Lake; Mt. Yale in the background
Summit of Mt. Harvard; looking south at Mts. Yale and Princeton, Sangre de Cristos in the upper left
Summit of Mt. Harvard; looking north at Mts. Belford and Oxford
Summit of Mt. Harvard; looking south at the Harvard-Columbia traverse
Summit of Mt. Columbia; looking west into Horn Fork basin
Summit of Mt. Columbia; looking at Mt. Harvard and Harvard-Columbia traverse
Descent from Mt. Columbia; looking south towards Mts. Yale and Princeton

5. Mts. Belford (14,200 ft) and Oxford (14,158 ft) and Missouri Mountain (14,070 ft): 9.6 miles / 7060 ft ascent / August 2 

Dawn on Mt. Belford
Summit of Mt. Belford; looking west at Missouri Mountain
Summit of Mt. Oxford; looking south at Mt. Harvard and Pine Creek basin
Near the summit of Mt. Oxford; looking north
Returning to Belford from Oxford
Cruise from Belford over to Missouri Mountain (upper right)
Looking south from Elkhead Pass
Summit of Missouri Mountain; looking northwest towards La Plata (upper right)
Summit of Missouri Mountain; looking south towards Emerald Peak (13,885 ft)
Summit of Missouri Mountain; looking north at Missouri Gulch
Summit of Missouri Mountain; looking west at Mt. Huron (upper right) and Ice Mountain / the Three Apostles (upper left)

6. Mt. Huron (14,010 ft): 3.3 miles / 3300 ft ascent / August 3
Hazy sunrise
Smoke blew in as I neared the summit of Mt. Huron
Summit of Mt. Huron; looking south at Ice Mountain and the Three Apostles
Summit of Mt. Huron; looking west at South Fork Clear Creek drainage

7. Mts. Elbert (14,440 ft) and Massive (14,430 ft): 9.3 miles / 8350 ft ascent / August 27
I have dreams like this
Mt. Elbert
Summit of Mt. Elbert; looking north at Mt. Massive and Half Moon Creek drainage
Summit of Mt. Elbert; looking at Twin Lakes
Summit of Mt. Elbert; looking west
Summit of Mt. Elbert; looking south at La Plata 
Trail up Mt. Massive
Ascending Mt. Massive; looking south at Mt. Elbert and Half Moon Creek drainage
Ascending Mt. Massive; looking west
Upper Half Moon Lakes
Mt. Massive's massive ridgeline 
Solitary mountain goat

8. La Plata Peak (14,340 ft): 4.6 miles / 4310 ft ascent / August 28
Trail on La Plata's northwest ridge at dawn
Summit of La Plata; looking southwest
Summit of La Plata; looking south towards Mt. Huron (upper right) and Mts. Belford and Oxford (upper left)
Summit of La Plata; looking north at Ellingwood Ridge and Mt. Elbert
Summit of La Plata; looking towards Independence Pass

Unnamed peaks above La Plata Gulch


Here are a few photos of our cute kitten, who is going by Tabeguache (TAB-uh-wahch). See this other post for photos of Tabeguache Peak.