Over the past week, Raffelina and I took a road trip up to Santa Cruz to visit her college campus and friends; along the way we drove the coast road through Big Sur and spent a couple nights there.
The first day, we drive through San Diego, Orange, Los Angeles, Ventura, and San Luis Obispo counties to the southern edge of Big Sur, Ragged Point. The traffic in Orange, Los Angeles, and Ventura counties is an absolute nightmare! We don’t have a campsite booked for that first night and plan to camp out of the truck at a Highway 1 pull-off near San Carpoforo Creek. Unfortunately for us, the spot is better for tent camping than truck camping, because there is plenty of open space for tents on the beach but the pull-off spots are right on the side of Highway 1. On this remote coast, we don’t have cell service to search for alternatives. Adding to our misfortune is the early sunset that ends the day at 5pm. This has always caught me off-guard: it feels like summer, but the day ends so early! Thankfully we had stopped at a pull-off overlooking the ocean about a half hour before sunset to cook our rice noodle dinner and watch the sunset. After we accept our less-than-ideal accommodations, we go on a little moonlit walk on the beach, where the San Carpoforo Creek fans out to the ocean, and then do some reading in the truck before going to sleep.
In the morning, we greet the sun on the beach – Raf does yoga, I drink coffee. We walk around and take in views of the rocky headlands, wide beach delta, and pale blue surf illuminated by the rising sun. We drive north along the coast, stopping at a handful of scenic overlooks and state parks, including Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park, where a creek tumbles over a cliff onto a small cove beach. In Big Sur, the mountains meet the sea: the road winds up and down along ragged cliffs cut by steep stream channels and ravines. We arrive far too early at our campsite for the second night in Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park, so we park just outside of the park and go for a hike. Unlike much of the Big Sur coastline, which comprises steep mountainsides that drop precipitously to the sea with little forest or flat space, Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park lies in a northwest trending coastal valley forested with redwoods and oaks. On our hike, we walk up through the redwoods, into the oak shrublands, and take in views of the valley opening up to the ocean.
Around 2pm, we check in to our campsite along the Big Sur River (really a stream, not a river). Raf wants some reading time in her hammock and I am feeling more exercise, so I ditch my shirt and start running up the Mount Manuel trail. I hadn’t gone on a trail run in about two years, and it feels absolutely fantastic! I can’t bring myself to run in the city, both due to the toxic air and the pavement that pounds away at the knees. I live to push my cardiovascular system; I feel most alive when I’m hurling myself up a mountain, whether on a bike, skis, or my own two feet. The trail switchbacks four miles up through the redwood forests and the oak shrublands into wide open chaparral. I run the first three miles and walk the last one because the shrubs are a little too thick for running. The views from the top are incredible: jagged peaks of the Santa Lucia mountains to the east and south, where they bow to the Pacific blazing blue in the sunset glow. I feel my soul awakening. When I return to the campsite at dusk, Raf had made rice noodles. We go to sleep listening to the sounds of the stream.
The next day, we enjoy a leisurely morning with teff pancakes, reading, and tea next to the stream. We pack up and drive a few miles down the road to Andrew Molera State Park on the coast. There, we hike a short distance to a secluded beach, where we swim and warm up briefly before starting our longer hike. This leads up through open chaparral and oak shrublands onto a bluff overlooking the ocean to the west and the Santa Lucia Mountains to the east. We descend the bluff toward the coast and follow a spur trail onto a pristine, sandy beach glowing in the late afternoon sun. From there, we walk along the shoreline back to the trailhead, passing through rock archways and wandering through mounds of seaweed. That night, we again have no accommodations lined up (all the campgrounds are super booked!), so we drive north along Highway 1 until we find a road leading east into the Bixby Canyon on the north side of the bridge. Trying to find a spot that is isolated from the lights and noise of the highway, we drive a few hundred yards down this road, cook dinner on the tailgate, and call it a night. Even though we have good flashlights and headlamps, darkness at 5pm makes camping a challenge, and a little less enjoyable!
The next day, we leave Big Sur and drive through Monterey before stopping at a beach in Marina, where I make coffee and teff pancakes and Raf catches up on some communications with her friends in Santa Cruz. In Santa Cruz, we explore the beautiful University of Santa Cruz campus in the redwood forest, eat at the dining hall, and then sneak into the hot tub at the Dream Inn near the wharf. Afterward, we head over to Raf’s friend Ezzy’s house, where we are spending the night. The next day, we go on a rambling hike along some train tracks in the redwood forest and then along the San Lorenzo River (really a stream, not a river). We eventually lose the trail and find ourselves scrambling on boulders and steep slopes lining the stream channel. We have a great time trying to find a safe route back up to the train tracks, which we eventually do, just in time to find the established trail that leads back down to the stream. Later that day, Raf’s friend treats us to a spa session at “Well Within”, where we drink tea, soak in the hot tub, and sit in the sauna. We spend Thanksgiving with the family of one of Raf’s friends before driving home on Black Friday.
Reentry following this trip has been a real challenge for me. I’ve been struggling to appreciate San Diego life for a while now, and this trip gave me a brief taste of the forests, streams, and mountains that I am missing. As someone who values clean air, clean water, quiet, open space, things that grow, and generally healthy living, my life in San Diego feels wrong. I sometimes feel like I’ve betrayed my former and future self. In contrast to some of the beautiful places I’ve lived over the past ten years, my daily life can feel a bit nightmare-ish at times. I don’t regret making the move to San Diego: after years of living in remote places and then visiting cities occasionally, I had developed a renewed curiosity for city living and forgotten why I had rejected it years ago. This experience has served as a reminder (hopefully for life) that city living is not for me. It’s possible that I could be happy in a city that has embraced the benefits of dense living (e.g. good public transit, bicycle and pedestrian infrastructure, limited vehicle ownership etc.) and associated improvements in quality of life (e.g. clean air), but Americans seem to have no interest in such a culture.
Over the past few months, I had settled into a routine of working 7am-4pm at my place in Ocean Beach, and then riding my bike over to Golden Hill to visit Raffelina. For a while, I was really loving the ride – it was the perfect way to get in some exercise and avoid the stress of afternoon traffic on the 5. Sadly, in September I noticed some tightness in my chest, dizziness, and headaches following these rides, so I did the ride with a “Pocket Lab” air quality monitor. At the intersection of Nimitz and Rosecrans, the reading of PM2.5, those particles that are too small to be filtered by the nose and mouth and tend to lodge themselves deep in the cardiovascular and nervous systems and lead to respiratory problems, cancer, and dementia, shot up from around 20 to 70 micrograms per cubic meter, fourteen times the World Health Organization recommended level. The Air Quality Index shot up from 50 to 170, solidly in the range that is “unhealthy for all groups”.
Needless to say, this experience had me feeling pretty deflated. It really takes the fun out of riding a bike when it doesn’t feel healthy. This is a problem I’ve confronted at various times in my life: biking down 30th street in Boulder during sunny ozone-full afternoons, hauling produce through the summer streets of Minneapolis. I started avoiding my rides to the grocery store, limiting my rides to Golden Hill by arranging a bike-pool with Raffelina, and wearing a respirator when I ride my bike. Still, I feel like I’m wasting my youth energy playing in traffic, shaving months off my life, and accelerating my mental deterioration.
I long to spend my free time gardening, building structures, and generally investing energy into my surroundings and future, rather than the leisure activities that are currently available to me. Surfing is fun and really helps me get a sense of freedom and peace, but it’s not something I could build a life on. San Diego has some cool hikes, but I really miss forests and streams, and I value access to places for regular recreation that don't require getting in the car for too long. I really need nature to be integrated with my home life; I need to be able to spend time outside at home.
My employer (the Department of Interior) is working (at a snail’s pace) on a new process for employees to apply for “remote” work (in contrast to “telework”, an established policy that requires two visits to the office each biweekly pay period). As the remote work option becomes available, I will apply for it; however, my job has become a nightmare over the past few months as I continue to be handed over-budget, past-the-deadline, dumpster-fire projects that I am expected to frantically push across the finish line. I’ve started putting out feelers for a new gig. Raffelina wants to be in San Diego through June 2023 and then go on a long world trip, so it’s looking like our timelines are sadly not in alignment.
For a while, I’ve been trying to honor my journey, be patient with the process, let life unfold, and avoid forcing the next step. However, I can’t lie to myself and ignore the inescapable fact that I am unhappy. I sometimes wish that I could be satisfied with city life in the same way that my friends and family can, that I could resolve the need to improve my life and my surroundings. Although my iterative life process has brought me a lot of joy and personal growth over the past ten years, it can also be extremely painful to make changes and improvements to my life on a regular basis. My soul must have been forged in pre-Industrial Revolution times, or even pre-Agricultural Revolution times, for I often struggle to exist as a 21st century human. I don't understand how you all have adapted so well.
I want to live in a place with clean air, moisture, mountains, streams, and forests. I long to be established enough to adopt a dog. I long to rebuild the old cedar cabin that we deconstructed in June 2020. I turned 29 a few months back and 30 looms ahead; the thought of my San Diego experience bleeding too far into my 30’s doesn’t feel right at all. I need to spend ages ~30-40 putting my energy into my life projects. I have stashed away a pretty comfortable amount of cash and retirement savings at this point, so I feel some freedom in making a move that prioritizes my mental and physical health. While it’s certainly not advisable to make changes to one’s employment, relationship, and home all at once, I feel ready and empowered to begin making careful plans. I’ve begun talking to a forest farm community in southern Oregon that could offer a great opportunity to develop my skills in growing food, caring for animals, and natural building. The only drawback is the intense fire season throughout inland southern Oregon and northern California that reduces air quality significantly more than vehicle traffic, but for a much shorter time period. I am tempted to spend solitary and silent time in nature (e.g. Appalachian Trail, Pacific Crest Trail, Bike Tour, rebuilding cedar cabin) to gather strength for the next opportunity. Let this post serve as a formal solicitation for advice or recommendations for the next move. I am overwhelmed, but I am driven, calm, and resilient.
























































